Walking around Kyoto in December 2018, it felt like the tourist infrastructure was bursting at the seams. The tourism boom came crashing down in early 2020, and after a lengthy, COVID-induced hiatus, Japan reopened its borders to independent foreign travelers in October 2022. In January 2023, the number of foreign visitors for both business and leisure had risen to 1,497,300 from 1,370,000 in December, according to the Japan National Tourism Organization.  Arrivals are still down 44% fr

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