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Today, Tea Journey writer John Smagula takes you on a journey to Brazil, exploring tea in the otherwise coffee-producing giant. He shares the story of Elizeth van der Vorst, who has built a well-regarded specialty tea company in Brazil, through her passion, innovation, and perseverance.
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Brazil has been the world’s largest coffee producer for over 100 years, and nearly 4 out of 5 Brazilians drink coffee every day. Against this backdrop, introducing tea may seem a daunting task. However, trailblazer Elizeth van der Vorst built her well-regarded specialty tea company in Brazil through passion, innovation, and perseverance.
Redefining “Chá”: From Medicinal Herbs to Daily Enjoyment
“Growing up in Brazil, I mostly knew herbal infusions and yerba mate,” Van der Vorst said. “My grandmother and mother often prepared them for specific symptoms, like colds or stomach aches, using plants such as mint and lemon balm. But we also drank them simply for enjoyment, such as mate in the afternoon or chamomile at night.”
That cultural understanding of tea was evident during my trip to Brazil, where I spoke at Insper Law School in São Paulo. My hotel room had the usual coffee maker and tea bags, but with mint and lemongrass, rather than English Breakfast. Van der Vorst said, “In Brazil, chá is understood to mean any infusion, with herbals still being much more popular.”
The Portuguese word for tea is chá, unlike té in Spanish. Early Portuguese traders encountered Mandarin or Cantonese speakers in Macau, who pronounced tea as “cha”. Spanish traders, however, often obtained tea via Dutch or English merchants who traded in Fujian Province, where the local Min Nan dialect uses the term “te”.
The Origin Story: Discovering Indian Tea in Europe
Van der Vorst began her career as an international trader with Philips. In 1989, she visited Philips’ plants in the Netherlands, where she met her Dutch husband, Gerard. She later moved to the Netherlands and came across Treasure Tea Company and its director, Jaap de Groot, who became a close friend and introduced her to the world of Indian teas.
“From my very first sip of Darjeeling, I knew tea would become my destiny. The color, flavor, and entire sensory experience transformed me, transporting me to India through tea. From there, I knew I had to introduce these amazing teas to Brazil.”
Founding Amigos do Chá: A Grassroots Education Campaign
Patricia, Elizeth, and Gerard with the author
In 1994, Van der Vorst returned to Brazil and founded her first tea and herbal import-export business to do just that. “I started from scratch and launched a grassroots tea education campaign,” she said. She later adopted the trade name Amigos do Chá for her website, which later became the company’s official name.
Early on, van der Vorst organized tea events and promoted tea in hotels. “People marveled at seeing the tea leaves unfurl in the glass pot,” she said, “which was quite a spectacle. I also spoke about the antioxidants, polyphenols, and other health properties of tea. I wanted to show that tea isn’t just for sickness, but for pleasure and overall wellness.”
Bridging Flavors: How Assam Complements Coffee Culture
In Brazil, coffee is deeply ingrained in daily life, with drinks like cafezinho, a small black coffee, or pingado, a coffee with milk, being ubiquitous. Assam teas offer a related flavor experience for those looking to explore other options, with their robust flavor that stands on its own or pairs well with milk, providing a new way to savor a warm beverage.
Chamomile, lemongrass, and peppermint are popular herbal infusions in Brazil, and specialty teas from around the world bring a wide range of options to local consumers. The company curates these offerings with attention to quality and taste, drawing inspiration from traditional Brazilian drinks like chimarrão as well as from global tea culture.
“Many Brazilians are health-conscious and seek ways to reduce caffeine,” she said. “Most are familiar with brewing coffee or yerba mate with hot water that isn’t boiling, so transitioning to steeped teas can feel natural.” For those seeking caffeine-free options, herbals provide a flavorful alternative, with rooibos becoming quite popular.
The Berries Tea
Adapting to the Market: The “Jogo de Cintura” Approach
Van der Vorst continuously adapts to her customers’ needs and interests, innovating along the way. Her company now features a wide variety of bagged and loose-leaf pure teas, including CTC and BOP Assam, flavorful blends such as turmeric sencha and gunpowder green tea with mint, and herbal infusions like chamomile, lemongrass, and peppermint.
“The tea market is always evolving,” she said. Referring to jogo de cintura, a Brazilian expression for the ability to adapt and dance through challenges with ease, she said, “and we constantly adjust to new demands, regulations, and challenges, such as shifting trends, import delays, or climate-related product shortages.”
Expanding Horizons: Tea in Gastronomy and Mixology
Elizeth and Patricia with the author
As she grew her customer base, van der Vorst expanded her efforts to bars and restaurants, as mixology is an important area where tea is being creatively introduced. “Our outreach includes restaurants, cafés, tea houses, boutiques, and any establishment interested in incorporating high-quality teas into their offerings,” she said.
One customer, Patricia Moribe, is the owner of Mori Chazeria, São Paulo’s premier tea venue. A third-generation Japanese Brazilian, Moribe blends her bicultural heritage into a thoughtful food and beverage menu. “Tea is comforting to me,” she told me. “I want others to experience the warmth of my culture and connect to my past through high-quality tea.”
Building Global Connections: From Brazil to India
Tea’s power to connect cultures is something van der Vorst feels deeply. Despite years of selling Indian teas, she and Gerard first visited India in 2022, and they now travel there frequently. “I feel great love and connection with the tea producers and communities we’ve met. It’s a bond that tea naturally fosters across cultures.”
Van der Vorst is leading a transformation in Brazil—one cup, one conversation, one habit at a time. “De grão em grão, a galinha enche o papo,” she said, invoking the witty Brazilian saying that means, “grain by grain, the chicken fills its belly.” She added, “It’s a lesson in patience and purpose. By taking small steps in whatever we do, we can change the world.”
To discover more about Amigos do Chá, visit www.amigosdocha.com.br.
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Bhavi Patel
Bhavi Patel, known as Banjaran Foodie, is a distinguished tea and coffee expert with a background in dairy technology and brand building. As a trusted writer for renowned publications including Perfect Daily Grind, Barista, and STiR Magazines, she combines scientific expertise with storytelling to explore specialty beverages.
